Introduction
Replacing a bathroom faucet is one of the most satisfying upgrades you can make — it instantly refreshes the look of the vanity and can solve persistent drip issues that no amount of washer replacement will fix. In NYC apartments, bathroom faucets see heavy use and the combination of hard water and age takes its toll. The job requires basic plumbing skills, a couple of hours, and some patience working in the cramped space under a bathroom vanity. The most important step is choosing a faucet that matches your sink's existing hole configuration.
Step-by-Step Instructions
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Step 1 Choose the Right Replacement Faucet
Measure the distance between the centers of your existing faucet holes — standard configurations are 4-inch centerset (three holes close together), 8-inch widespread (three holes spread apart), and single-hole. Count the holes in your sink: one hole, three holes, or sometimes four (with a separate sprayer or soap dispenser). Buy a faucet that matches your hole count and spacing exactly. A single-hole faucet can work on a three-hole sink if it comes with an escutcheon plate that covers the extra holes. Take a photo of your current setup when shopping.
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Step 2 Remove the Old Faucet
Turn off both hot and cold water supply valves under the sink. Open the faucet to release pressure and drain remaining water. Disconnect the supply lines from the faucet tailpieces using an adjustable wrench. Then remove the mounting nuts that hold the faucet to the sink — these are underneath, and you will likely need a basin wrench to reach them in the tight space. Basin wrenches are designed specifically for this job and cost about fifteen dollars. Once the nuts are off, lift the old faucet and clean the sink surface of old putty and grime.
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Step 3 Install the New Faucet
Read the manufacturer's instructions, as installation varies by brand. Generally: place the rubber gasket or apply plumber's putty around the faucet base, insert the faucet tailpieces through the sink holes from above, and hand-tighten the mounting nuts from below. Center the faucet and make sure it sits straight before fully tightening the mounting hardware. Tighten evenly — alternate between nuts to prevent the faucet from shifting. With a centerset faucet, make sure the hot and cold supply connections are on the correct sides.
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Step 4 Connect the Supply Lines
Connect new braided stainless steel supply lines from the shut-off valves to the faucet tailpieces. New lines are strongly recommended even if the old ones look fine — they are inexpensive insurance against leaks. Hand-tighten the connections first, then snug them with a wrench — typically a half turn past hand-tight is sufficient. Do not over-tighten, which can damage the brass fittings. Make sure the lines are not kinked or twisted, as this restricts flow and creates stress points that can fail over time.
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Step 5 Connect the Drain Assembly
Most new faucets come with a pop-up drain assembly. Remove the old drain by unscrewing it from below the sink (you may need pliers to hold the drain body while turning the lock nut). Apply plumber's putty around the new drain flange, insert it from above, and tighten the lock nut from below. Connect the pop-up linkage rod from the faucet body to the drain's lift rod. Adjust the linkage so the drain stopper opens and closes fully. Turn on the water slowly, check all connections for leaks, and test both hot and cold.
When to Call a Professional
Call a plumber if the shut-off valves under the sink are corroded and will not close or are leaking — they may need to be replaced before the faucet swap can happen safely. Also call a pro if the supply pipes coming out of the wall are corroded or use non-standard connections that do not match modern supply lines. In older NYC apartments, plumbing configurations can be unusual — pipes may enter from unexpected angles or use obsolete fitting sizes. A plumber can adapt the connections cleanly. If you are in a co-op or rental, check whether plumbing modifications need approval.
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